The Global Significance of Cashmere
Cashmere, often called "soft gold," has been a symbol of luxury and craftsmanship for thousands of years. This exquisite fiber, derived from the undercoat of cashmere goats, has significantly impacted economies, fueled trade disputes, and transformed the fashion industry. While its origins can be traced back to ancient civilizations, modern-day China is the leading producer of cashmere, supplying over 70% of the world’s raw cashmere. This article explores the rich history, technological advancements, and the contemporary dominance of Chinese cashmere manufacturers, as well as niche markets like custom cashmere and custom knit sweaters.
Chapter 1: Early History of Cashmere (Tang Dynasty to Ming Dynasty)
The Dawn of Cashmere in China
China's relationship with cashmere dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD), when artisans began to weave garments using the soft underfleece of goats. Historical records from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) reveal the refinement of these weaving techniques. Song Yingxing’s *Tiangong Kaiwu* (The Exploitation of the Works of Nature), published in 1637, meticulously documented methods for producing cashmere cloth, highlighting its lightweight yet insulating properties.
Key Innovations:
Hand-combing Techniques: Early artisans manually separated cashmere fibers from the coarse guard hairs.
Natural Dyes: Fabrics were colored with plant-based dyes such as indigo and saffron.
Chapter 2: The Qing Dynasty to the Mid-20th Century
Industrialization and Challenges
By the late Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), China had developed a woolen industry, but cashmere processing remained basic and underdeveloped. The lack of advanced machinery limited production capacity, and most cashmere was consumed within the country. It wasn't until the 1960s that China introduced its first-generation cashmere carding equipment, which allowed for efficient fiber separation and marked the beginning of industrial-scale cashmere processing.
Chapter 3: Market Liberalization and Chaos (1985–1990)
The Double-Edged Sword of Deregulation
In 1985, China shifted from a state-controlled pricing system to a free-market approach for cashmere. While this transition encouraged entrepreneurship, it also resulted in significant chaos:
Speculative Frenzy: The lure of high profits attracted inexperienced traders, leading to an influx of new participants in the market.
Adulteration Crisis: To increase weight and maximize profits, some farmers began mixing cashmere with sand, salt, and even heavy metals, which severely diminished the quality of the product.
Price Volatility (1988–1990):
Year | Event | Price per Ton (CNY) | Quality Impact |
1988 | Price peaks amid hype | 1.2 million | Severe adulteration |
1990 | Market collapse | 300,000 | Export value drops 75% |
Chapter 4: The Cashmere Price War of 1988
Boom, Bust, and Strategic Mastery
The cashmere price war of 1988 saw prices surge to CNY 1.2 million per ton before crashing due to widespread fraud. However, visionary companies like the Ordos Cashmere Sweater Factory were able to capitalize on the crisis. By stockpiling undervalued cashmere at CNY 300,000 per ton, they made significant profits when prices rebounded to CNY 900,000 by 1992.
Lessons Learned:
1. Quality Over Quantity: The prevalence of adulteration eroded consumer trust, allowing ethical suppliers to regain market share.
2. Strategic Stockpiling: Timing purchases during market downturns proved to be a lucrative strategy.
Chapter 5: Government Intervention and Market Stabilization (1991–Present)
Policy-Driven Recovery
To address export chaos, China introduced:
Export Licensing (1991): Required minimum prices and quotas.
Auction Systems (1995): Competitive bidding for export licenses ensured transparency.
Outcomes:
Year | Policy | Export Value (USD) | Key Suppliers |
1995 | License auctions | $500 million | Ordos, Erdos Group |
2020 | Sustainable practices | $3.2 billion | IMField,China cashmere manufacturers |
Chapter 6: Modern China as the Cashmere Powerhouse
Leading the Global Supply Chain
Today, China is at the forefront of cashmere production, skillfully combining tradition with modern innovation.
Custom Cashmere: Manufacturers such as IMField and Edenweiss provide bespoke dyeing and weaving services.
Custom Knit Sweaters: Various platforms allow clients to digitally design patterns, necklines, and fits for their sweaters.
Conclusion: The Future of Cashmere
From ancient looms to AI-driven custom knit sweaters, cashmere remains a testament to human ingenuity. As cashmere manufacturers in China embrace sustainability and digital customization, this timeless fiber continues to redefine luxury.
