Cashmere is one of the most prized natural fibers in the global textile industry, renowned for its luxurious softness, light weight, and excellent insulation properties. While cashmere garments are often associated with elegance and high fashion, few consumers — and even some businesses — understand the intensive and meticulous process behind its production. For B2B stakeholders, including manufacturers, wholesalers, and fabric suppliers, having a clear grasp of how cashmere is made can impact sourcing strategies, cost management, and quality control.
Cashmere is made by harvesting the fine undercoat fibers of specific goats during their natural molting season, followed by a series of cleaning, dehairing, carding, spinning, and weaving or knitting processes.
This transformation from raw goat fiber to luxurious yarn involves both traditional craftsmanship and advanced machinery, and each stage requires precision to maintain the softness and quality that defines premium-grade cashmere. This article breaks down the entire production process, step by step, to provide comprehensive insights into the making of cashmere from a B2B perspective.
Table of Contents
Step 1: Combing or Shearing the Goats
Step 2: Sorting and Grading the Raw Cashmere
Step 3: Dehairing – Separating the Fine Fibers
Step 4: Washing and Cleaning the Fiber
Step 5: Carding and Aligning Fibers
Step 6: Spinning Cashmere into Yarn
Step 7: Dyeing the Yarn or Fabric
Step 8: Weaving or Knitting the Final Product
Quality Control and Grading Standards
Conclusion: From Field to Fabric – Why Process Matters in B2B
Step 1: Combing or Shearing the Goats
The first step in making cashmere is to comb or shear the goats during the spring molting season to collect their fine undercoat fibers.
Cashmere-producing goats, particularly from Mongolia, China, and Central Asia, naturally grow a soft undercoat during the winter to protect them from extreme cold. When spring arrives, these goats begin to shed their undercoat, making it the ideal time for fiber collection. Traditional herders use combing techniques to gently remove the undercoat without harming the animals, while some commercial farms prefer shearing due to efficiency, though it may mix guard hair with usable fiber.
Combing is a labor-intensive but animal-friendly method that typically yields a higher quality fiber. The average yield per goat is about 150 to 250 grams of raw cashmere annually. B2B buyers interested in sustainable and ethical sourcing should prioritize combed fiber, as it generally results in longer, cleaner, and softer fiber with minimal guard hair contamination.
Herders often gather the fiber manually, sort it by hand, and store it in breathable bags to maintain its integrity. This step is crucial as poor handling can introduce contamination or moisture, negatively affecting the final product's quality and value.
Step 2: Sorting and Grading the Raw Cashmere
After collection, the raw cashmere is sorted and graded based on color, length, diameter, and cleanliness.
Sorting typically happens at the cooperative or initial processing level. Fibers are manually separated by color (white, beige, brown, grey) and by coarseness. White cashmere is the most valuable because it can be easily dyed into various colors. Longer and finer fibers fetch higher prices and are more desirable for high-end apparel production.
Grading ensures consistency and allows for quality differentiation in the B2B market. Common grading parameters include:
Micron count: The diameter of the fiber (usually 13–19 microns)
Staple length: The length of the fiber (typically 30–45 mm)
Color and contamination level: Impacts dyeing and processing cost
This sorting stage determines the end use of the fiber — higher-grade cashmere is reserved for garments, while coarser grades may be used in blends or industrial applications. Buyers should request lab-verified reports or use trusted grading facilities to ensure consistency in raw material purchases.
Step 3: Dehairing – Separating the Fine Fibers
Dehairing is the process of removing coarse guard hairs from the fine cashmere undercoat.
Raw cashmere contains a mix of soft undercoat and coarse guard hairs, the latter of which are undesirable in luxury products. Dehairing is performed using specialized mechanical equipment that combs, separates, and extracts the coarse fibers. This step is essential in producing the ultra-soft texture associated with high-quality cashmere products.
Dehairing facilities are typically located near collection hubs to minimize transportation damage. Efficient dehairing not only improves softness but also increases yield — usually only 50–60% of the raw fiber becomes usable after this step. For instance, 200 grams of raw cashmere might result in 100 grams of dehaired fiber.
B2B buyers should assess the dehairing efficiency of suppliers to understand actual output and adjust pricing models accordingly. Fiber loss during dehairing is a key metric when estimating costs and planning production volumes.
Step 4: Washing and Cleaning the Fiber
Washing removes dirt, grease, and residual plant material from the dehaired cashmere fibers.
Cashmere naturally contains lanolin and environmental debris collected during grazing. Washing, typically done with gentle detergents and warm water, helps prepare the fiber for carding and spinning. Excessive washing or the use of harsh chemicals can damage fibers, so quality processors follow precise protocols to protect the fiber’s softness and elasticity.
The washed fiber is then dried in climate-controlled environments to avoid mildew or shrinkage. Cleanliness at this stage determines the efficiency of later stages like carding and dyeing. In B2B sourcing, processors with clean water supply and eco-friendly facilities are becoming increasingly important due to environmental regulations and market expectations.
Proper washing also improves fiber performance during dyeing, allowing for richer, more uniform color absorption. Businesses investing in high-end cashmere products must ensure their suppliers use industry-standard or certified washing methods.
Step 5: Carding and Aligning Fibers
Carding is the process of aligning the cashmere fibers and preparing them for spinning.
Carding machines use a series of rotating drums covered in fine wire teeth to straighten and separate fibers into a continuous, fluffy web. This stage converts the fibers into a roving or sliver — a loosely twisted rope of aligned fiber — that’s ready for spinning. Well-carded cashmere results in smoother yarn with fewer knots and weak points.
Inconsistent or improperly carded fibers can lead to defects in the yarn, which impacts the quality of the final textile. For manufacturers and wholesalers, inspecting carding quality is crucial before committing to large-scale yarn or fabric orders.
Some high-end processors perform additional combing post-carding to further refine the fiber alignment. This results in more uniform yarn, which improves garment texture and durability — key selling points for premium markets.
Step 6: Spinning Cashmere into Yarn
Spinning transforms the prepared fiber into yarn by twisting and strengthening the aligned strands.
Cashmere yarn can be spun using ring spinning, open-end spinning, or air-jet spinning techniques. The spinning method chosen affects yarn thickness, softness, and tensile strength. Fine cashmere yarns are typically spun to a high twist count to ensure durability while preserving softness.
Spinning may also include blending with other fibers (such as silk, cotton, or wool) for specific applications, though pure cashmere is usually preferred for luxury products. Yarn is wound into cones or skeins depending on its end use — for weaving or knitting.
For B2B buyers, specifying spinning parameters — such as yarn count, ply, and twist direction — is critical when ordering customized products. Supplier documentation should include these technical specs to ensure batch consistency and production efficiency.
Step 7: Dyeing the Yarn or Fabric
Dyeing gives cashmere its final color and can be applied either at the fiber, yarn, or fabric stage.
White cashmere is ideal for dyeing and is typically dyed using low-impact, fiber-specific dyes that preserve the fiber’s softness. Common methods include:
Fiber dyeing – done before spinning for heathered or melange effects
Yarn dyeing – offers consistency in color across garments
Piece dyeing – used when garments are dyed after knitting or weaving
Eco-conscious businesses are increasingly seeking dyeing partners that use GOTS-approved or OEKO-TEX certified dyes. Consistency, colorfastness, and chemical impact are important quality metrics. Inconsistent dyeing leads to shade variation and product rejections, increasing costs for B2B partners.
Dyeing facilities should be equipped with wastewater treatment systems, especially if serving export markets with strict compliance requirements.
Step 8: Weaving or Knitting the Final Product
Cashmere yarn is woven or knitted into fabric to produce finished products such as scarves, sweaters, and coats.
Knitting is more common for garments like pullovers, cardigans, and accessories due to the stretch and comfort it offers. Weaving is used for structured pieces like coats or shawls. The choice of weave or knit style significantly affects texture, drape, and warmth.
Machines used in this stage range from hand-operated looms to advanced computerized knitting machines. Production runs are carefully monitored to prevent defects such as uneven tension, loose stitches, or fiber breaks. High-end manufacturers often carry out quality checks at multiple stages, including post-production steaming and inspection.
For wholesalers and private-label brands, partnering with experienced knitters or weavers ensures consistent garment quality and reduces the risk of return rates due to defects.
Quality Control and Grading Standards
Quality control in cashmere production involves testing fiber fineness, yarn strength, color consistency, and garment finish.
Industry standards vary by region, but most high-end suppliers use ISO or local testing protocols. Key quality checkpoints include:
Micron count and staple length analysis
Tensile strength and elasticity of spun yarn
Colorfastness, pilling resistance, and shrinkage tests
Some manufacturers also apply final anti-pilling treatments or softeners to enhance wearability. For B2B buyers, requesting a quality assurance report or conducting third-party lab testing can help ensure order accuracy and maintain brand standards.
Adhering to high-quality standards not only ensures compliance but also strengthens market reputation — especially when exporting to regulated regions like the EU or North America.
Conclusion: From Field to Fabric – Why Process Matters in B2B
Understanding how cashmere is made — from combing the goat to the final woven or knitted product — is crucial for businesses involved in the textile supply chain. Each step plays a significant role in determining product quality, cost, sustainability, and customer satisfaction.
By working closely with certified and transparent suppliers, specifying quality requirements early, and investing in knowledge of the full production cycle, B2B buyers and manufacturers can ensure consistency, efficiency, and competitive advantage in the global cashmere market.
